“Chasing angels or fleeing demons, go to the mountains.”

Before continuing on with this updated blog please review “The Asia Series, - Part One” for a historic account of Thamel, Kathmandu. - My favorite city in the world. Link below :

https://www.sarahkilduffphotography.com/travel-blog/2019/10/30/the-asia-series-part-one-kathmandu-nepal

I returned to Kathmandu on a whim. Not that it would take much to get me there, a fleeting thought about Nepal and I am sitting on Skyscanner daydreaming…

So next thing I know I am in Qatar..then BOOM, hello Kathmandu airport you crazy dis-organised mess of brilliance.

As I sat in the taxi, taking in the sights, the people and the smog, - (scarf at the ready) I just remember feeling SO HAPPY. It had been too long since I had visited and the second my feet hit that soil, it was like I never left. A home away from home.

Thamel has not changed, - modernized yes, but the same vibe lingers throughout the narrow streets and creaky buildings. It has really rebuilt itself since the 2015 earthquake, and in most places, you would never have guessed that such a traumatic wave of destruction ever struck those streets. Most landmarks have been restored and most buildings stand free from props and makeshift scaffolding structures that were on every corner during my last visit.

On that note, I have compiled some updates that I hope someone may find useful during their own travels to Nepal in the future. - As for me, I have my next trip planned already!!

Tourist Attractions/Landmarks

Durbar Square

“The traditional heart of the old town, Kathmandu Durbar Square in front of the old royal palace of the former Kathmandu Kingdom is one of three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Although deeply affected by the earthquake, its historic remnants stand tall and strong amongst its own legacy.”

I go to Durbar Square and Boudhnath every time I visit Nepal as it is an excellent place for people watching and travel photography opportunities. As I discussed in my recent Youtube video on the “Basics of Photography” - the fleeting moment, that decisive emotional response to a situation is what you are attempting to photograph. not a thousand “good” images of the scene, but that ONE moment that makes the viewer think. - “What happened next?”

This time I experienced something new, - I got to see the “Kumari, - the living goddess”. She resides with her high priestess in Durbar Square and appears to the public at 4pm everyday for a few seconds to be worshiped. It is quite outstanding, but photography is not permitted.

..”A young Newar girl with no blemishes is chosen to represent the Goddess Kumari as an incarnation of Goddess Taleju, the tutelary deity of the Malla dynasty and the Shah dynasty which inherited the tradition. Newars are the original inhabitants of Kathmandu valley and have the most elaborate religious festivals. The Living Goddess is worshipped with great reverence and even the Shah Kings followed the tradition of receiving tika and blessings from her. Dating back to the 17th century, the practice was institutionalized by a Malla king. egend has it that King Jaya Prakash Malla under the influence of alcohol, while playing a game with the visiting Goddess Taleju in the form of a human, started lusting after her. This offended the goddess and she ordered the king to make an oath that he would select a virgin girl within whom she would always reside. The tradition has been continued to this day…….The young candidates from the Shakya caste among the Newars, many as young as four years old, must go through an extremely strict and harrowing selection process before one of them is chosen to represent the Goddess. She must remain calm and show no signs of fear even when put through scary tests. Once chosen, she has to live within the Kumari Ghar (Kumari’s House), her feet must never touch the ground and will leave her residence only during certain festivals. She will remain a Living Goddess until any form of bleeding occurs, which is usually when she reaches puberty.”

Ref: https://www.welcomenepal.com/places-to-see/kumari-the-living-goddess.html

Boudhnath

-Boudhanath is a stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal. Located about 11 km from the center and north-eastern outskirts of Kathmandu, the stupa's massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal. Although the top the stupa was damaged by the earthquake it still stands beautiful and its surrounding rooftop cafes provide you with the perfect mid-morning relaxation point.

The stupa has been completely repaired since the brutal attack the earthquake of 2015 bestowed upon it. It is quite magnificent to see it restored to its former glory and for it to be as busy as ever. I visited during holy week so the views of the local monks and worshipers was something to behold.

Narayanhiti Palace Museum

Is a palace in Thamel which long served as the residence and principal workplace of the reigning Monarch of the Kingdom of Nepal. Located in the capital city of Kathmandu, the palace was the centre of state occasions and royal hospitality. The palace complex is located towards east of the Kaiser Mahal next to Thamel and is incorporated in an impressive and vast array of courtyards, gardens and buildings. The current Narayanhiti Durbar was built by King Mahendra in 1963.

This was a first time visit for me. An easy 15 minute walk from downtown Thamel on the main road, the palace museum is open daily for a tourist fee. Unfortunately you are not permitted to take photographs or bring any personal items inside with you. Lockers are provided at the gate (but stick your passport in your pocket, just in case) It is an enormous, grand building for Kathmandu. You would not expect such a thing just down the road from Thamel. The museum is laid out with a walking route where you can view the enormity of the royal family life in all of its previous splendour. Once wandering the gardens on the perimeter, you can view the bullet marks that still survive from the royal family massacre. A chilling sight. It is definitely worth a visit.

The Garden Of Dreams

On walking back from the Royal palace, stop into the Garden of Dreams for a recharge, a coffee and a quiet wander around the green area. It is only 400 ruppees and definitely is worth it before heading back into the madness and noise of Thamel. The perfect way to end your morning wanderings.

Kopan Monastery

Kopan Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery near Boudhanath, on the outskirts of Kathmandu, Nepal. It is a member of the Foundation for the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition, an international network of Gelugpa dharma centers, and once served as its headquarters.

Easily done the same day as you visit Boudhnath. Head to Kopan first and then come back via taxi to Boudhnath. You can get a local bus from the town also but if you are not savy with local custom or travelling alone, a tax may be more suitable as Kopan can be a quite secluded area. The monastery holds retreats for those wishing to expand their knowledge but you can also enter for free during the day to walk around. Once you are respectful and quiet you should have no issue.

Recreational

Hotel Choice - Thamel Villa Heritage Hotel, Chaksibari, Thamel

Definitely more high end, but I decided to treat myself. In comparison to home, - I got basically a 4/5 star hotel with all amenities needed, perfect central location, secure gate, breakfast, - for less than a BnB in Ireland. That says a lot!! but will definitely be returning!

Restaurant - Places, The Grasshopper

As a return visitor you also go back to the same places, - Or2K for every meal you can fit in… pumperknickel cafe for the banana bread and coffee….and so forth. I ventured off and went to two places I had not been to in a long time. “Places” and “the grasshopper” - two perfect restaurant/late bars for socializing and free WiFi!!

So that is my Thamel, KTM update in a nutshell.

Next time I visit - EBC, Chitwan and much more!!

Stay tuned for my next blog on my Talamarang adventures!!!